Tuesday, 14 October 2008

It's a wrap!

Sea Otter II at Marina de Sud, Noumea

Sea Otter. Not a boat we were quite sure we actually would like when we finished signing the contract 8 months ago. Now I know that sounds absolutely crazy, that we would sign on a boat we didn't think we really liked...but I think when you buy something as crazy as a boat, you do have reservations after you have signed that contract. But now, 8 months and 4 days later and around 6500 nautical miles down the track.....well? I think we could say we like Sea Otter. Happy enough to live on her for 6 months or more, happy enough to toy with the idea of a future cruise somewhere.

I can tell you that the excitement you feel when you see the land of your home country even after such a short cruise as this one, is pretty amazing. To see the first little blue hump on the horizon, watch it slowly (very slowly as there was no bloody wind) turn into a bigger hump, get definition, be able to see the sand blows of Moreton Island, it brings a tear to your eye. And a little cockpit jig of happiness. Geoff truly believes we may not have made this one, so in his typical reserved manner (no cockpit jig) he seemed happy to see Australian land. I actually asked him to be serious about thinking we may not have made it and that was his serious answer...great! In reality the potential for emergencies on any boat passage is always there, I think I may have listed the 101 things that can get you at sea list on a very early Blog? But with a new boat, that you don't know much about, that you take on a 3200nm passage after owning it for only 2 months and that is the first time in 13 years that you have even set foot on a sail boat, let alone done a passage....well you are probably tempting the gods a bit.
Maybe it was luck, maybe it was the fact that Sea Otter is a very sea worthy and sea kindly yacht, maybe it was our great friend Ben, taking on his own personal pledge with the gods by refusing to cut his hair until we made it back home safely! Maybe it was all our family and friends constantly thinking of us and sending out good vibes or maybe....we were just lucky!!! Considering this has been one hell of a tough Pacific crossing, compared to 13 years ago, conditions have not been particularly kind to cruising boats heading west. We have rotten passages, cross seas and swells, strong head winds, strong currents (not on the pilot charts) breakages, sea sickness and general unpredictable and un-forecast weather conditions. Not as easy as last time that is for sure. Or maybe as Geoff says were just older and wimpier!

A lot of people have come into play to allow us to achieve this little fantasy adventure. From the start it would have to be acknowledged that without Geoff's brother Peter and his wife Louise looking after all of our personal, business and money matters...we couldn't of even left the country! What Pete and Lou have done for us is massive and many thanks for many months is due. Next on the list would have to be Dinah and Roger from Farallone Yacht Sales in Alameda. They not only sold us the boat, but adopted us and became fast friends, they gave us contacts, tips and advice. They showed us the island, took us to great Chinese restaurants and fab ice cream shops. They drove me to the biggest food warehouse in the States, they did so much. And we can only hope that one day they do come to Brisbane and we can return just a little bit of their hospitality and friendship. A few marine industry people in Alameda also took on board our sense of urgency and helped us get gear repaired, installed and working for our deadline of the US Hurricane season. Barb from Golden State Marine, a legend within the diesel engine industry anywhere in the world. She offered help and parts anywhere in the Pacific. The guys from Grand Marina, who hauled and installed our new rigging and folding prop and generally gave great advice and fair prices! Then Ian and Steve from Star Marine who installed our fantastic Autohelm system. That has steered faultlessly, quietly and accurately for nearly 95% of those 6500nm. After leaving the States, I think we can say our key person would have to be Ian, Geoff's long time flying buddy and ex yachtie himself, who has texted us weather forecasts across the North and South Pacific. Has predicted and read the models with skill and a wise eye for what we needed. Also Ben again, for the vitally important role of getting Geoff's surfboard over to us. Not an easy task when we are in Tahiti!! But he did it and filled it with the very welcome stash of Nescafe Cappuccino and Latte sachets!! Eight boxes!!! Ben also kept an eye on the weather for us. Then Charles....who've we've known for 20 years, owner of the sister ship to Timana, 'Cryptic' Charles, went to work for us on our squeaky rudder problem and within hours had the info and a contact for the exact concern to us!! Amazing! Then all the little but appreciated favours....Bill, Linda, Brittany and Coby for taking on the parental role of my adored Fighter Fish, not just any Fighter Fish a beautiful and unusual red and black crown tail, no less!! 'Big Red' has been enjoying life on the Gold Coast. Ben and Mel again for looking after a few boxes of our belongings from the Main Beach unit and Geoff's Dad, Max for storing all our our furniture and main belongings! Ah Max those things could be there for a few months!!!!! Hope that's okay? Geoff's sister Christine for bringing over some needed zinc anodes in her luggage to Tahiti. And then of course everybody for reading my personal spilling's on life, buying a boat, gearing it up and sailing it home. Thanks for giving a rats! :) Wow that sounds like a speech for some award...... Boy it's lucky I'm getting back to the real life! Sailing past Amadee lighthouse in New Caledonia
Ah... back to now, after the initial excitement of seeing your homeland , well....ah it sort of drags. You can see Moreton Island from about 35 miles away and motoring at 6 knots, you excitement drains into tedium as you realise it will be another 7 hours before you are actually in the Bay!! It's always hard getting into port on the last day, it never goes fast enough for me. Hence me sitting here at the Chart table on my laptop writing this! The day is beautiful, last night was spectacular well until the wind died off! The full moon, the clear sky, the flat seas....wonderful sailing, that we haven't had enough of this year! The passage in general was another mixed bag. The first day out of Noumea harbour was lovely, blue skies good forecast for the week ahead and a scenic sail past the famous Amadee lighthouse and atoll. That day was also perfect, however.......Friday was nightmare! The wind came in way more than it was forecast to. 25 – 35 knot ESE lumpy big seas. We did 161 nm in that 24 hours, so it was fast going but very uncomfortable. I had got some new sea sick tablets in Noumea, they didn't have the usual brand I used from the States, so I gave these a go for the first day an a half. But had to stop as the side effects were um not pleasant. All I will say is that I spent an awful lot of time in the head on the loo... and my kidneys actually were sore after 24 hours! So of course then I was left with the dwindling effects and the oncoming seasickness, great. I spent the next 4 days queasy and unwell. Hardly ate anything. It was very rough and rolly passage for the first four days and even Geoff was unwell. We actually had a bucket out between us one night just in case!! We have NEVER done that before! So the days dragged, a mean and decent sized southerly swell kept the boat rolling heavily beam to beam, whilst the wind eased on day two to a nice sailing breeze, we got stuck with the residual swell from the southern ocean. It's been a fast passage and again Sea Otter has proved her stuff. She has averaged 6.4 knots over the 5 days, with two 160 nm days and two 150 nm days...pretty damn good. She has just trucked along whilst we moaned and whined below. It's things like this that make you like a boat, she's remained dry below. One little drip from a window when it rains heavy, that's it. She's quiet and doesn't squeak and creak too much. She's light and airy, important when you are spending a lot of time below decks out of the fresh air. She's proven herself not to be just a shoal draft bay boat, not your usual ocean crossing cruising yacht for sure, but she's taken it on and like a real Sea Otter, seems to just love being in the water!

Tuesday was a long long day, just getting into the Bay then the 25 miles to go through the passages towards the Brisbane river mouth. Then into Rivergate Marina at around 6.30 pm the official clearance port of Entry. Where Customs and Quarantine came on board to do our Practique. They were fantastic and it was painless and over in an hour. We had our food, shells and carvings inspected and removed if they were deemed a threat to Australia. Then we were free to relax, enjoy the calm and a couple of drinks! We felt out in the boonies! Missed not being able to see everyone for another day....but relieved to be safely home.
Sailing into the Brisbane river past the shipping docks
Early today we left Rivergate and leisurely motored down the river past our old stomping ground of New Farm and Glenfalloch. And into our new home for the next six months or more???? Dockside. It's been an amazing eight months, what can I say.....I'm glad we did it, I'm glad were home and I'm glad we bought this boat. Come and see us sometime.....

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