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Day 10 238nm 2 go! both very tired,queasy & bruised. big rolly+confused seas. 25+ winds continue. tough passage

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Day 9 370nm 2 Tonga, last 24hrs wild & rough 20-30kn big mixed up swell/seas. all well, keen 2 b in!

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Day 7 we should b nearly in Tonga but we still have 620nm 2 go! Great weather-little wind.

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Day 6 still slow going 520nm 2 Niue. great weather (for sunbaking) breadbaking 2day.

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Day 5 pos 16 42S & 159 29W. Forecast lite to no wind for nxt 4 days! aargh caught mahimahi y'day. 610nm to Niue. both well :)

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Day 4 position 16 32S & 158 09W. Slow going, lite winds from SSW-SSE. 689nm to Niue. both well :)

It's time to go: Sea Otter!

Photo courtesy of "Mr John VI"

Our anchorage for the last 4 days at sunset

Hmmm, some times you are glad you didn't leave port with the masses! Since posting the last Blog we have been holed up in a little anchorage on the west coast of a Motu on the western side of the lagoon in Bora Bora called Motu Topua. We are anchored in about 39' and sit very close to the cardinal marker with it's 9-flash white light keeping us company at night. And maybe a tad too close to the shore reef?

The mass exodus of yachts that left on Tuesday/Wednesday (and which we thought maybe we should have gone with for company) have been kicked about pretty heavily on route west. They have been on the radio each morning talking about 35 – 40+ knot winds and big, steep seas. The poor buggers are really getting a thumping. And these are mostly bigger boats than us, like our friends on the 47' Airwego and 53' Charisma. So, we've sighed a quiet 'phew' and wait much more patiently for the weather to ease and go back to normal trades. Like 15 – 20 knot SE'ers would be nice!! Saturday proved very miserable, very overcast, lots of drizzle, then rain and a blustery, squally SSE'er, which by early evening decided to blast into the anchorage from the WNW!? We think what was happening is that the true prevailing wind is coming in strong from the SE and NE then it is funneling around the corner of the Motu and whomping into our anchorage. It all proved for a dreary laid back day.

Yes I made another batch of chocolate chip cookies.... but that is because we had finished the rest of them of off when the Aussies of the 31' “Six Pack” came over for morning tea! How classic Aussie is that name for a boat? Louise (who is a born and bred Lord Howe Islander) and her partner Rex (originally from Murwullimbah) are sailing one of the smaller boats in the pacific this season. So maybe we are a bigger boat to someone! It will be good to hang out with “Six Pack” as they will also be heading back to Oz via Tonga and Fiji.

Sunday, bucketed down rain all morning and allowed us to fill up our tanks, do the washing, wash my hair (all in fresh) and fill three extra buckets for luxury fresh baths!! Since we don't have a dedicated rain catcher awning and our tarpaulin got diesel on it and is too big anyway...we haven't really been catching any rain. Till I remembered that our old friends Gill and Derek on Ginseng had a technique to catch water running down the decks of their boat. They create a dam behind the water tank deck filler and once the decks have had a good rinse off, they open the water tank deck filler and let the water flood in. Well, it worked for us!! One of our deck fillers is aft on the port side, perfect. And as it had been raining all day the day before and through the night, I knew the deck was clean of salt and dirt. I created my little dam with a bunched up tea towel about 4 cm behind the deck filler and immediately the rain water started to dam up, I unscrewed the deck filler top and woo hoo...full tanks in no time!!! Brilliant and simple. Geoff was impressed at how quickly it filled up the tanks. So thanks Ginseng!

It's been a dreary wait and listening to the yachts under way near Aitutaki and Samoa, has stopped us from just rushing off out of boredom. One of the yachts had been knocked down (laid flat by wind and waves) and cracked their mast. Another also has a problem from heavy conditions. So we are glad that we did not give in to the urge to go. Today the weather is showing that we will be mostly getting light and variable winds for the first four days then a return to SE 10 -15 knots, looks good even if it means a bit of motoring could be on the cards. Geoff is in town dropping off the garbage and picking up some last minute fresh food, then we will drop the buoy off the bow and head out. We will sail past Mophelia an island 127 nm west of here, just in case we get no wind and want to stop motoring, otherwise onwards towards: Aitutaki and Niue.

We will be back on Satellite phone till Vava'u and no Blogs or emails :(

Leaving Sunday

The crowd gathers on National Day!

For the girls!!
For the boys!! ;)

Okay here's the real one for the boys!!

Well, the time has come to say farewell to Bora Bora and French Polynesia. There is a sense of departure around Vaitape this morning.... “Mr John VI” sailed off back to Huahine this morning to catch up with friends and we will really miss them. We have spent a lot of time hanging out with them since we have been here and cruising is always more fun in the company of others. A mass exodus of yachts left bound for ports to the west by lunchtime. It was amazing to see so many white sails in a line out to the horizon. I think we will have plenty of company when we head off tomorrow. Geoff has been in and cleared out with the Gendarme, we have got a full load of fuel on board, done all our washing (by hand as they don't seem to have self serve laundromats in the Pacific- trust me – appreciate your washing machines!!!!!) got some provisions, now we just need to top up with water tomorrow morning, grab a couple of fresh baguettes and we will head off.

Monday was 'National Day' or the old Bastille Day holiday. And Bora Bora was a hive of activity and people. A big sanded arena was prepared and a stadium to seat the officials so they could watch the parade. We and just about every other yachtie in Bora Bora were ashore to check it out. It was a load of fun, colour and flowers. Everyone in Bora Bora seemed to have a float or group of people in the parade. The soccer team, the boxing team, the local model agency, the fishing club, the artisans group (wonderful older ladies in traditional dress with floral hats) and every hotel on the island, plus the two supermarkets!! It also was a good chance to chat to all the other yachties. You can't miss us with our wrinkled clothes, waterproof footwear, floppy hats and obligatory backpack and camera! We met another Aussie at the parade 'Simon' who also bought a boat in San Francisco earlier this year and is sailing it home! Seems like Aussies are all going over to the US buying cheap boats!

Monday night we got invited on board 'Airwego' Mike and Cindy on a 47' American yacht that we met in Moorea. It was sundowners on deck with another couple of Americans from a 53' yacht 'Charisma' Alan and Kristen. Yes it is always nice to hang out with those on bigger yachts, when you are from a small yacht! And here we were thinking that if we bought a 37' yacht, much bigger than Timana's 33' that we would be in the average size of cruising boats. But nope, it seems in those 13 years the average length of cruising yachts has grown to about 42'!!! So bugger, we are still considered a small yacht this time too. Anyway, it was a great evening and overall a great day.

The only problem we have now is the rudder. Why you ask? Well one of the maintenance things Geoff did while we were anchored in that lovely 8' of calm water, was to check the steering cables, dis attach them and grease them. But what is very odd and a bit unfair...is that since he did that we have a constant squeak when we turn the helm! Geoff has rechecked the cables and the quadrant and all looks okay. But where is that squeak coming from in the rudder shaft and why????? So, we got onto our good friend Charles back in Brisbane (he who owns a Mottle 33 at about the same time we had Timana) and asked him to research the problem in Oz for us with Jeanneau, he did and got us all the info we needed within the hour! Thanks Charles, it has eased our minds a bit.....but I am sure it will just be another worry for Geoff to carry along to Tonga. :(

Otherwise we are keen to move on and get to Tonga and very keen to try and see if we can stop at Aitutaki in the Cook Islands? Aitutaki is a very tricky place as the pass into the lagoon through the reef is narrow and quite shallow – 6'!! It has a bar to cross and not a lot of space inside for anchoring....so we will only go in if it is perfect weather and conditions. However once in, it is supposed to be a beautiful place. If the weather is not suitable for going in we will continue on and sail close past Niue. A very small volcanic island, with no lagoon. You just pick up a mooring (if there is one free) off the reef that is close in to the shore. The depth just drops off into the abyss very quickly after the reef. It doesn't have a lot of protection from the swell either as there is no bay, it is a circular shaped island. You may wonder why are we thinking of these two anchorages? Well, the passage to Vava'u is 1285 nm about 8 or 9 days sailing. These two spots would allow us to break the passage into small bites, trust me a lot easier on the body and soul. Aitutaki is 482 nm from here about 3 days sailing and another 568 nm or 4 days to Niue. That would only leave 235 nm to go to Vava'u about 2 days sailing. Much more civilized!
So.... until we get to Vava'u we will just update the Blog with text messages from the Iridium Satellite phone to let you know how were going.

Oh yeah..Happy Birthday to my big brother Keith on the 19th too!! Miss you heaps big bro.

Blog you in Tonga!!!

Lost in Paradise

We have been lost in paradise the last four days, enjoying a most superb anchorage at the wonderful Motu Taurere on the south east corner of the lagoon. Wonderful fine white sandy bottom, crystal clear 8' deep water, ranges of the colour blue that are only to dream about. Perfect swimming, a nice selection of coral bommies to snorkel over and feed the fish. Calm and peaceful, away from the meriad of resorts and resort activities. We shared the anchorage with “Mr John VI” and aussie catamaran “Rush” plus the odd charter boat would turn up for the night and go the next day. I really was hard to motor away from there this morning back into the main town anchorage of Vaitape.
It is Bastille Day today a public holiday and we hear there is a parade. So we may pop in to check that out. Otherwise tomorrow will see us fuel up, water up, provision up and clear out from the Gendarme. To head for Tonga. The forecast is looking pretty good and if the weather is really good we may even stop at Atiutaki in the Cook Islands and maybe even Nuie?? We shall see. Otherwise it will be about 8 - 10 days to Vava'u.

Bora Bora 2

John and Paula "Mr John VI"

Local guide for Stingray feeding

The Stingray up CLOSE to me!!

Okay, we have just picked up a mooring buoy off the famous, Bora Bora Yacht Club for the night. This is were 13 years ago we enjoyed a dinner with Max (Geoff's Dad) Bill and Linda. Max paid and it cost him about $20 each for our burger and chips!!!! Now I've just been in to check out what the deal is with taking the buoy, it's still free, the restaurant is under renovation so no food, but we can go ashore for a drink in the bar. So we may do that if Geoff is up to it, just for old times sake.

Bora Bora is now even more touristy, lots more Hotels, lots more boats, lots more tourists. However the Island is still as beautiful as ever. And we are both looking forward to getting back to the anchorage on the SE corner were we anchored 13 years ago in 10' of lovely pool like clear water in beautiful white sand. Remember that spot, Max, Linda and Billy?

We hear Christine got home safely and we thank her again for all the food she bought us, the treats and parts she bought us over from home and the wonderful dinners out she paid for. Way too generous. But certainly very appreciated! The new zinc is happily installed on our Max-prop and we hope that it will hold off the electrolysis problem we seem to have???? Don't ask!!

Bora Bora

Apologies for no Blog updates since the rather brief last one from Raiatea, which was done on a very weak signal. We have been anchored in 14' of lovely clear water off the reef in Bora Bora, busy snorkelling, swimming with the Stingrays and feeding the fish by hand underwater....ah so busy. And sadly NO internet signals out there.

I have also been looking after Geoff who spent yesterday and the night before very sick with a vomiting bug. Not good. But today his is up and feeling 99% so we have motored up past the town of Vaitape and are hoping to head over to the eastern side of the big island and anchor behind a Motu. Do some more swimming and a few little jobs on board. So will be out of internet contact again for awhile.

Otherwise all is well, nothing huge to report. Hanging out with our friends on 'Mr John' and were lucky enough to get invited over for a DVD night to watch Diehard 4.

Will probably be in Bora Bora for another week, before we head off on the 1200nm passage to Tonga which will probably mean about 8 - 10 days at sea. Urg.

Raiatea

Anchored off the reef in only 8' is a sweet thing. But what is even sweeter, is that for the first tmie we have an anchorage all to our own! It's heaven. We have been here since Chris left and will probably head off to Bora Bora today. That is if Geoff

doesn't want to go back to Huahine for more surfing!!!!!

Huahine to Raiatea

Geoff's surf spot at Fare, Huahine

The little Motu we anchored behind, Raiatea

Our berth at Apooiti Marina, Raiatea.

We got an early start for our passage to Raiatea, it's about 25 nmiles and with no wind it was going to be a long motor across. The nice thing was the seas were low and flat, so at least it was smooth. And the fridge got a good chill down! Another beautiful day for Christine, sunny warm and clear. How lucky was that considering the weather forecasts were for rain?!

We made it to the eastern pass into Raiatea after about 4 hours, there is a little motu (island) that you can anchor behind in the shallowest anchorages available in Raiatea and Tahaa. These are two islands sitting in the same reef protected lagoon. Most of the anchorages are in about 60' and that's alot of chain and rope to lay out each night for anchoring. So we had a go at this tight little spot, there were three boats there already and we had to anchor on the southern end of the motu. In 29' but the bottom was strewn with large coral bommies and our anchor ended up wrapped around one directly under the bow! So after a quick swim, we carefully hauled up the chain and anchor and motored on around the top of Raiatea to the north western corner to the Moorings Charter Yacht base at Apooiti Marina. Here Geoff was able to secure us a nice berth tied alongside the visitors wharf in 9' of very calm water. For only $25 aud a night!!!!! How cheap is that?

So we all went off and enjoyed a nice shower to freshen up for sun downers at the bar on the marina grounds. Now no surprise is it that the drinks cost way more than the Marina anchorage did! A scotch and dry will set you back $12.80, same for Chris's Gin and Tonic, however Geoff's Hinano beer 330ml only cost $7.20... a bargain! Geoff says us girls should learn to drink Beer! We splurged at Chris's suggestion for a second round, hmmmm maybe the sun got to Geoff today?? But we also ended up staying for dinner and the French Chef really did his country proud of gastronomic delights! Chris of course refused to let us pay, so I think she has to mortgage the Farm when she gets home to pay her Credit card bill?? The food was superb, truly a special treat.

Today Geoff and Chris have gone off for a walk to Uturoa the main town about 4 kms away and to suss out the Airport for Chris's departure this afternoon. Four days goes really fast and we have had a fab time, for the short time it was. Tonight here at the wharf and then tomorrow off to visit Tahaa? We think?????

Last days in Huahine

Geoff's sister Chris relaxing on Sea Otter in Huahine

Enjoying the sailing back to Fare in Huahine, inside the reef.


It's going to be very very hard to leave Huahine tomorrow morning.....Geoff has clearly stated that this is his favourite south pacific island (the surf has a fair bit to do with that call) and I must admit, it is close to mine too. The water, the choice of protected anchorages, the facilities, the more laid back - less touristy feel.....it's pretty hard to beat.

Yesterday we motored south to an anchorage we visited 13 years ago with Bill, Linda and Max. Our memories of it were very positive from back then. Though we must be getting old, as we somehow remembered it to be a lot shallower anchorage than the 38' we had to anchor in!!! It was calm, quiet and with only 5 other yachts there!! We swam, we walked along the beach, we snuck across a private coconut plantation to get to a road. We saw the south pass and the surf spot, and we visited the tribal marae (pile of ceremonial stones) then swam more and generally just chilled out! Then a dinner of Roast Lamb that Chris bought (well we think it was Lamb, we couldn't understand the French label)

This morning after another lovely swim, we motored back to the main town anchorage of Fare. It was a beautiful day, blue, warm, clear and lighter winds. We were able to sneak along the inner reef shoals to see the pale blues of the sandy bottom. This time we've anchored off the inner reef in a shallow 14' section near the beacons, pure sand bottom - so VERY good holding for our anchor. Geoff scooted off for another surf, apparently not as good as the other day....but less injuries!

Tonight, we have just been to a lovely waterfront restaurant and enjoyed a few Mai tai's and local Hinano beer. I think we got Chrissy tipsy? Chris had Tamarind Duck and we had Burgers...not very Polynesian I know? It's now 7.50pm, it's dead calm, a bit muggy, a light shower just passed over and I am wondering whether I will be able to get Geoff awake to listen to the State of Origin at 11.30pm our time!!!!

Tomorrow we are off to Raiatea! A 25 nmile sail to the south of west. This is were Chris will leave us via plane back to Tahiti. There's surf there too!!!!